i did prior to purchase of my boat, i had a good idea of it's construction prior to purchase. Guess if i were you, i'd find a boat i like and then research it to find out what it's made of. guess my oem figured they had no choice and had to use something to fasten to for the ft. there's a piece of wood only under the ft. and the worst place there is wood is the ft. a wood free boat for all practical purpose. maybe some wood in the transom, but if there is, is isolated to where the gimble housing is mounted. get breached by water and the foam becomes saturated over time, weighting down the boat to poor performance.ĭon't limit yourself to specific years imho. If I can at least get dry rot out of the equation, I can better judge what boat is best for us.Ĭlick to expand.some all glass boats have a lot of foam in them. Rot problems are sometimes hard to find until it is a big problem (the case with our last boat). We live in an area of really high humidity too, so that doesnt help. I just want something durable and reliable that wont develop soft floors or need expensive repairs due to dry rot. Not specifically a towboat, but a nice direct drive would perform really well? Performance is very important, but I can look at the mechanical on a case by case basis. Primarily a good family boat, that would also easily pull skiers, tubes, etc. My budget probably pushes me closer to the 18 foot range, but I have seen some 21-22 footers that look pretty good too. Information on boats of this era is scarce, and people with experience and knowledge are the best resource for this info? I should have been more specific, I am looking at 1993-2001 year boats and have found many in this price range (sea-ray, larson, reinell, crownline, century, bayliner, glastron, sea-swirl, mastercraft, nautique, etc.). Re: All Fiberglass runabout brands? Burned by dry rot before, not again.
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